The Millionaires' Palace
This isn't normal. The ground itself is shaking. Not the stand - I'm not in the stand – I'm on solid earth and it's shaking. If you've...
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Who We Are
Mar 85 min read
Ice and Fire
The huge tifo going up is the sign I’ve been waiting for. Underneath it, I’d been told, the ultras would right now be changing clothes...
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Who We Are
Nov 11, 20234 min read
The Hard Way
Thick fog crawls around the stadium. A fog that dampens clothes, that tastes of the brine it's born in from the sea. One player after...
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Who We Are
Sep 14, 20238 min read
On Either Side of the Wall
The most racist club in the world. Quite a statement to make about a team. Even more so to wear it as a badge of honour for your own. The...
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Who We Are
Feb 20, 20238 min read
Life After the Party
'FOR FUCK'S SAKE, CHAZ!' The ball is nestled somewhere between an admin building and a palm tree. Charlie Austin - we all know Charlie...
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Who We Are
Feb 18, 20235 min read
The Frayed Palace
A man sprints up the stadium steps and throws both middle fingers in the air, a deluge of Italian swear words gushing from a face...
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Who We Are
Oct 30, 20227 min read
Rebel Spirit
Poljud perches on the Adriatic coastline like a perfect shell that has washed up on the shore. The sun glints off its ridged roofs, which...
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Who We Are
Oct 29, 20225 min read
The Fire of the Gods
The noise is unholy. Smoke floods the stadium, the red flame of pyro deep inside the fog mixes with the surging voices of thousands. The...
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Who We Are
Sep 27, 20226 min read
The Revierderby
A 17 year old boy stands apart on the deep green grass. His mouth is wide, jaw muscles tightened into an aggressive roar. He pumps his...
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Who We Are
Sep 27, 20225 min read
Capital Decline
Austria's greatest footballer is memorialised with a plaque next to a Burger King. It marks the flat in which he and his girlfriend died,...
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Who We Are
Sep 6, 20224 min read
Dinamo
The men bang their fists heavily against the walls of the tram, singing at the tops of their voices about fighting the police. They...
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Who We Are
Sep 1, 20227 min read
The Eternal Derby
Hell itself opens up, spitting smoke and flame, and bellows a deafening roar. With the referee's whistle, the south tribune becomes a...
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